Getting Settled in Baghdad - Day 26 of 350

I finally arrived in Baghdad about two weeks ago. We took a C-130 from Kuwait to Baghdad International Airport or BIAP as they call it here. The flight was pretty miserable. Whenever you travel anywhere in a combat zone, it is mandatory that you wear your body armor, Kevlar helmet, etc. So picture being in an airline seat minus about 3 inches of leg room, plus about 40 or 50 degrees, wearing 40 lbs of body armor and being crammed in the middle seat of a 5-seat row. It was bad... I'm not claustrophobic, but I thought for a minute I was going to lose it. I think it's the only time in my life when I've felt that way.

Upon arrival to Camp Victory, we were given some indoc briefs and set up in temporary tents. Yes, tents again, but at least these tents had beds, which was nice. I stayed at Camp Victory for two days before taking a convoy north to the New Embassy Compound or NEC, which is situated in the International Zone or IZ (formerly known as the Green Zone).

It's quite nice here compared to the other military bases I've been to the last several weeks. There is actually grass here, which is, for the most part, unheard of on Iraq/Kuwait military bases. Believe it or not, there is also some landscaping, but it's not doing very well right now. I'm not sure the plants that were chosen were hearty enough for the climate here.

Speaking of climate, the weather here in Baghdad is significantly nicer than Kuwait. So far, it doesn't seem to have been hotter than about 110. Given that there isn't much humidity 110 isn't really as bad as it sounds. In Kuwait, there was a thermometer outside the USO in the shade and one day it read 130. That is hot... if you've never experienced heat like that before it's actually oppressive. It not only dehydrates you almost instantly (I was drinking about 9 liters of water there each day), but simply walking across the base makes you feel as if you've just run a half-marathon.

The living accommodations in the NEC are quite nice. We have a Pizza Hut, coffee shop and Subway as well as a pretty nice dining facility. It even has real plates and silverware. I'm laughing as I write this because one day when I was in Kuwait, which has all plastic plates and utensils, I broke my fork three times in one meal and was complaining to my friends that I didn't think I could spend a year eating with plastic-ware. You find ways to have fun and joke around in this environment... So when I first arrived here, I made sure to send them all a note and let them know not to worry because I had real silverware and I was going to make it.

As far as living quarters go, we live in a place called Chuville, which is essentially a series of metal containers or Containerized Housing Units (CHUs). They aren't too bad. It's basically a metal box that looks like the back of a semi truck. It has a cable hookup, Internet hookup, electricity and, most importantly, a good air conditioner. It doesn't have a bathroom, but there are bathroom units very close. Each bathroom unit has three bathrooms with a shower, toilet and sink in each so there is some privacy.

As I've told some of you already, I'm very pleased so far with the work situation. First off, I work in a very nice office building. This compound, which includes the American Embassy, is brand new and quite nice overall. Lots of marble, nice architecture, etc. Most importantly though, the people I work with are great. They have been very welcoming and willing to answer all of my questions. There are so many factions in Iraq--from both a religious and political standpoint (sometimes overlapping)--that it's a task to simply understand who the players are in this environment.

The job that I've been assigned to do is also great. I'm working on media outreach and have been asked to keep in constant contact with the Iraq-based correspondents for the Western media, such as USA Today, The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, etc. What's nice about this job vs. a corporate media job is that the reporters genuinely want the information you have to offer. In corporate PR, it's like you are always trying to sell something (mostly something like a used car). This job is great because it's about politics, reconstruction, rebuilding and as my mentor, CAPT Vic Beck, says, "saving lives," and he is right.

These days the military has taken on an advisory role to the Iraqi government and military. Furthermore, we are planning to leave Iraq from a military standpoint within the next few years. The biggest hurdles to that are security and the development of a stable economy in Iraq. Therefore, my job should focus a lot on demonstrating that Iraq is increasingly secure (which is true) and that its economy is actively developing. The communications are inherently complex because we have so many audiences to talk to and are also communicating through a number of different channels. I'll write more about this another time.

Here are some photos:

This is what we ride around in; it's an MRAP or mine resistant, ambush protected vehicle:


This is me in the chair that Yasser Arafat gave Saddam:



This is me in the Humvee during our combat training:


This is a bathroom in Saddam's palace... pretty nice:

These are homes of Uday and Qusay... we bombed them pretty good as you can see:

Day 3 of 350

We arrived in Kuwait on Friday night just before midnight local time. Our flight left SC and stopped briefly in Bangor, Maine and Liepzip, Germany before arriving in Kuwait. We traveled for about two hours to Camp Virginia where I will be stationed for the next week or so before heading to Iraq, my home for the next 341 days.


Overall, the base at Camp Virginia is pretty nice. The downside, of course, is that it is about 115 degrees outside and very, very dusty. I described it to a buddy as putting your face right by the oven door, opening it, waiting for the gust of hot air and then having someone throw beach sand in your face at the same time. On the brightside, they do have a Starbucks.


Our living quarters are somewhat interesting too. I am in a 9-man tent with a guy that snores far louder than me. Those of you that have shared a room with me before know that is an accomplishment. The saving grace in this situation, which I am eternally thankful for, is that we have an enormous and powerful air conditioner in our room, which drowns out essentially every noise. Nick and Suzanna, think of a sound soother the size of a VW Jetta. In fact, it's so cold in our tent, I have to wear socks and sleep in my cold weather sleeping bag. Again, this is strange because as soon as you wake up you realize that it's about 40 degrees hotter outside and the wind is sandblasting your tent.


Tent photo:





Here is a photo of our tent city:



The landscape almost makes you feel like you've traveled to a Martian outpost or something. Anway, that's all for now. I'll take some photos at Udiari and send those when I get some time.

My New Life

I just finished three weeks of Army training at Camp McCrady, which is a small section of Ft. Jackson in Columbia, South Carolina. For those of you who have not been there, Ft. Jackson is enormous, about equivalent to the size of Columbia itself. To put it in perspective, it takes about 30 minutes driving at approximately 60-70 miles an hour to traverse the base.

My stay there was interesting. The officer barracks held about 25 people and was about average (maybe below average) on quality. Overall, however, the training side was great. We learned survival skills, land navigation, shooting on the M-9 (a 9mm semi-auto handgun) and M-16 (a semi/fully auto rifle), IED training, Iraqi customs and culture training and many other things. The most fun was shooting the fully auto machine guns. As a guy that likes guns, I really enjoyed this part and took full advantage of the opportunity to light up the targets they had set out for us on the range. That said, I realize after wearing body armor for three weeks in 95+ degree heat, I am much more cut out for a desk job in public affairs than an infantry job.

Whether or not you want to be in the Army, you will feel like a soldier at Camp McCrady. I will tell you that the Army drill instructors are top notch. Some of them are a little odd, but very knowledgeable nonetheless. My favorite drill sargeant was a gent named Staff Sargeant Jacobs. He came in everyday in a great mood and really made us laugh. You could say he was one of those guys with an infectious personality.

I'm including a link to a video of him explaining to us that we needed to arrange our gear into two bags... in his words, a "need bag" and "don't need bag"-- basically the gear we would need for our training during our stay and the gear we wouldn't be using. If you have trouble understanding what he is saying, he is referring to our IBA (individual body armor), our IBA plates (the heavy metal plates that protect you from AK-47 bullets and our pistol belt (gun belt). You may not think this video is as entertaining as I do, but I can't help at laugh at the fact that SS Jacobs is used to making things very clear for his Army recruits. After all, they can be a little dense. Just kidding.

The biggest downside to the training-believe it or not-was the administration by the Navy side. For some reason, the Navy felt it was important that we were treated like recruits. There was no off-base liberty except for two days, we had to stand watches despite the fact that there was someone in the barracks at all times and even though we finished training early most days, we had to sit in a classroom and clean our weapons whether we had fired them that day or not. Having been in the Navy for almost 16 years, I find it some what demeaning and demoralizing that the leadership felt that we needed to be babysat like boot camp recruits. I honestly felt that the Navy leadership could have treated everyone with far more respect and treated us like we were capable of being responsible adults. Maybe the next administration will see things differently. That's my biggest gripe about Camp McCrady training... the rest was pretty good.

For those of you reading this for enjoyment purposes, you can skip this part. I promised some people I'd write a short survival guide. Here goes:

Things to bring:

Quick dry towels: someone recommended these to me and they came in very handy. It's damp and you have to hang your towel in your locker so regular towels don't dry out very well.

A headlamp: if you want to walk around in the barracks when the lights are out, these come in handy. They will also come in handy when you get to Kuwait where brownouts are frequent and lighting isn't great to begin with.

Universal power converters: for Kuwait

Carabiner clips: you can hook pretty much anything to your IBA and these will come in handy with all the gear you have to carry. I hooked my camel back to my IBA and several others hooked their kevlar, knee pads, elbow pads, sunglass cases, etc.

Coffee: if you like coffee, there are coffee pots in many of the barracks. I enjoyed skipping breakfast at the chow hall, which sucks btw, and drinking good coffee and eating my cinnamon pop-tarts.

Laundry detergent and dryer sheets: there are laundry machines and, while you can buy stuff in the shopette, the supplies are pretty limited and often sell out.

PT Gear: Take at least two sets... I recommend four.

Pillow/sheets/blanket: It's navy issue all the way and my guess is the blankets haven't been washed since WW2.

Locks: Take at least four locks with you. The best are the type that have all the same combo or all the same key.

Boots/socks: The boots issued to you are not good. Many will tolerate them and many will have blisters, but if you want comfort, Danner boots are a great investment. I spoke to several people and they were almost always recommended as the best brand. Even better, they are one of the cheapest of the higher end brands. I bought a pair and have been very pleased. Also, I would recommend some thorlo coolmax hiking socks. They will cost you, but they are worth it, trust me.

Colored duct tape: Not a necessity, but when you get to Kuwait, you will be sorting through at least 400 sea bags. If yours is marked well, it will be easy to find. Also, you never know when you are going to have to duct tape someone's mouth shut. Trust me, you will have several urges to do that at Camp McCrady.

Sharpies: Again, they always come in handy.

Gerber: You will get a Gerber issued to you, but if you want a nicer one, you could buy one. It will come in handy.

Civilian clothes: You won't get much liberty so one or two pairs of civvies will be fine. Anything else will just be in the way and space is limited.

Shower shoes: unless you want trenchfoot :-)

Books: there is a lot of white space.

Baby wipes: Also for Kuwait. You will have to spend what everyone says is three days on the Udiari range practicing convoy training. Really, you will leave in the evening, spend a full day on the range and then leave the morning of the second day (two evenings there). There isn't any running water so baby wipes will be your shower. Also, baby wipes are nice in Kuwait generally because you consistently have a fine coat of dirt on you.

Ballistic sunglasses: The issued type are pretty crappy. I can't really tell you what type to buy. I hear great things about Oakley's moisture repelling glasses. I wrote earlier (see below) about my experience with WileyX. Based on the post, one of my friends, Stephanie Shields, called Wiley and expressed her surprise at their response. According to her, they were very apologetic and told her that the person I previous dealt with was not stating their policy accurately. Needless to say, I received a new pair of sunglasses from them on Sept. 7, which pleases me overall.

PREVIOUS POST: [I will tell you that I have had an absolutely awful experience with WileyX. I bought a pair of their glasses that cost me about $100. Literally, within two weeks the nose guards came unglued and fell off. I tried glueing them back on and they came off again. So, I called Wiley when I was at Camp McCrady and they told me that without my receipt, they wouldn't do anything to help me. I explained to them that I had a grand total of four sea bags comprising all of my worldly possessions and that my receipt was likely packed in storage somewhere, but they had zero sympathy and, in fact, haven't even responded to a long letter I sent them.]